Tips and Techniques, Start and Drive
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Introduction
Mercury received an all new, postwar styling starting with the 1949 model year. Nearly everything was changed when compared to the 1948 models. The Mercury engine, a flathead V-8 grew in displacement to 255 CID, and horsepower grew from 100 to 110. The suspension set-up placed coil springs in the front and leaf springs in the back. Power was transferred to the rear wheels via a 3-speed manual transmission, with an optional overdrive unit available. Pricing was aimed at the mid-market consumer, with a standard coupe costing just under $2,000.
Mercury made only minor adjustments in 1950, with some trim differences from the previous year. A low-priced coupe was added to the lineup, as well as the first hardtop design, the Mercury Monterey.
The most notable change for the 1951 model year was the introduction of the Merc-o-Matic automatic transmission. Horsepower changed nominally from 110 to 112, and exterior styling changes included reshaped rear fenders and rear glass. The front parking lights were changed with a chrome extension wrapping around the front fender.
This document is a collection of notes put together by the owner of a 1951 Mercury.
Electrical
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Generator does not Charge
Two brush Ford/Mercury generators use the shunt type generator design. The field circuit has an internally grounded field unlike MoPar and GM which ground through the regulator. To test a Ford/Mercury generator and/or regulator on the car, simply ground the field terminal at either the generator or regulator with the engine turning about 1,000 rpm and watch the amp gauge (do not disconnect any wires). Grounding the field removes all external regulation on the generator and it will go immediately to full charge mode. If the ammeter shows charge when you ground the field, the regulator is at fault. If the ammeter does not show charge, the generator is defective.
Note: The generator may have shorted out the regulator when it went bad.
Voltage Regulator
The 6 volt regulators on the 1951 Mercury are still mechanical and can be set.
| 1. | What is where inside the Voltage Regulator. |
| 1.1. | the current relay is directly behind the ARM terminal |
| 1.2. | the voltage relay is directly behind the FIELD terminal |
| 1.3. | the cutout relay is directly behind the BAT terminal |
| 1.4. | When an emergency occurs on the road, the regulator can be adjusted in an attempt to coax a defective regulator into working. To increase any of these settings, remove the cover and bend the rest that the flat spring rests upon upward. Bending should be minor in nature.... don’t exceed 0.020”. |
| 1.5. | If the generator charges when you ground the field it’s possible to rig up a ground on the field terminal to charge the battery in an emergency. Remembering that this will cause the generator to go to full charge, it is only logical that such action will cause the generator to overheat. Which will eventually melt the solder in the armature and ruin it. To prevent this excessive overheating, only ground the field for 10 minutes maximum at a time. |
| 1.6. | If you want to keep driving and not have to keep stopping, connect an insulated wire to the field terminal of the regulator or generator and route it to the inside of the car. Bare the end of this an inch or so and connect it around something grounded when you want to charge the battery. |
Dim Lights
Dim lights are usually caused by low voltage to the light or by a weak ground. Naturally the battery has to be charged with good clean posts. The wires in a 6 volt system are considerably larger than in a 12 volt system. Be certain that any wiring you’ve done is at LEAST as big as what your Ford came with to keep from choking the system. Usually the culprit is in the ground.... or rather the lack of.
The 6 volt battery should have the positive battery cable connected directly to the frame. Naturally the frame under the cable needs to be scraped bare and bright to function as a good ground. Make certain the frame and body are grounded by bolting a ground strap between them. Next thing is to make sure the bulb socket has a good ground between it and the frame. Clean the inside of the socket with some steel wool or sand paper until it’s shiny and bright. Many of these sockets are pressed into the reflector and this electrical union begins to fail electrically over the years. When in doubt, solder a length of wire to the brass socket itself and temporarily ground it directly to the frame. If this cures the dim light, you’ll know exactly where the problem lies and what’s needed to correct it.
Sometimes you have a bulb that is not burned out, but refuses to work in the socket. Could be the contacts are worn down too much. Just drop a little solder on these and they will work like new.
Home Page for Picture Library
A link to the home page for the picture library
This is the starting point for a collection of pictures taken in our drives around the San Francisco Bay Area.
Summary
SimoTime is a proud supporter of the preservation of legacy or classics automobiles. This is an excellent example of the styling and engineering of the 1950's. Here's to the "Lead-Sled" and "Flatheads Forever". This was a time when gasoline was only twenty-five cents a gallon.
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